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Some great but yet-to-be-appreciated yarns
This season there have been a lot of changes in the yarns available for knitters. There have been a lot of yarns discontinued, and a lot of new introductions.  In times of economic uncertainty, it’s no surprise that crocheters and knitters return to their favorites.  But there are some that I have tried, and deserve a closer look.

Lang Donegal     

Lang Donegal

Tweed is a trend, and this yarn is much more than a rehashed version of other tweeds.  Donegal has a DK gauge, but it is thick and thin (sometimes very thin).  If you are an intermediate knitter who hasn’t worked with thick and thin yarns, you will have to pay attention.  Donegal fulls on blocking, meaning that what looks like holes as you knit will fill in more solidly after blocking.  This quality makes Donegal an interesting choice for crochet, too!  A big plus–This is a yarn that is a man magnet!  I have a pullover OTN for John, and when our two sons were home for Christmas they both immediately snatched it up saying “this is nice!” (and they live in CA & AZ–not sweater country)  Just be sure to stick to the darker, neutral colors.  After showing off the patterns in the Lang Vintage book, they were all judged to be winners by my houseful of men.  The 50g skein has over 200 yards, so it goes a long way.

Big

VK Cover Garment
Vogue Knitting’s Cover Sweater featuring Cortina Nuvole

   BIG,
Astrakan by Lang
Lang Astrakan

& even

BIGGER yarn
Link Long Scarf    Berroco’s Link

Yes, all the fashion magazines, the knitting and the crochet magazines, and the TV/internet style shows  are showing big, Big, BIGGER knits! And they’re so gorgeous, and they’re fast to knit, but… but…. but….

“Super-bulky knits look great on a 5′ 10″, 90 lb model, but not me! They’re so pricey with so little yardage! And they’re so heavy–who could wear all that?! Even if you’re skinny, it weighs a ton!”

The answer is Yes, you can wear these yarns, if you choose wisely.   Here are some tips:

  • Accessories–scarves, hats, muffs–give the fashion look without being overwhelming
  • Look at the cost of the garment, not the price of the skein.  Most of these yarns are cost-effective.
  • Remember to keep the fabric and the fit loose–unless it’s an outerwear coat or jacket, these yarns shouldn’t be firmly knit.  They also not meant to be knit into sweaters that are close-fitting; instead choose patterns for layering garments.
  • Natural fibers are heavier than synthetics.  In these super big yarns, a synthetic portion or blend is a big plus in keeping them light enough to wear.
  • “Cable knit” yarns, where the strand is really a knitted tube, are much lighter to wear, and warm too.

A Quick Link to all our Big Yarns!

Gabrielle Shrug

This design in "Winter Warmers"

 Alpaca Chunky
This super-soft and snuggly yarn is a natural extension of Rowan’s Lima.  Since super-bulky yarns are so in fashion, it makes perfect sense to create a bigger, chunkier alpaca yarn.  This yarn is put up in 100g skeins, with about 76 yards, so as to minimize the number of ends you have to deal with.  And there’s a Rowan book Winter Warmers, with patterns for Alpaca Chunky, too.

Here’s a gift from me to you to get you started:

Snuggly Scarf

Knit in alpaca chunky

Simply Snuggly Luxury Scarf

This reversible scarf will make you want to go out in the cold just so you can wear it.  Or make it for someone else — Sometimes the recipe for a fabulous gift is deceptively easy!

2 100g balls Rowan Alpaca Chunky
US size 15 needles

Cast on 18 st, and work in this pattern

Row 1:  K3, P3 repeat across
Row 2:  K1,P1 repeat across

Continue in pattern until just enough of 2nd ball remains to bind off.  Weave in loose ends.  Block lightly to stabilize the stitches.  Finished size about 6” by 66”.

Tip:  When working with circular chain constructed yarns like Alpaca Chunky or Lima try joining balls this way.  Using a tapestry needle, thread the new end up through the center of the yarn tube of the old end for about 4-5 inches, then out the side.  Remove the needle and gently pull back on the yarn to bury the ends.  Then just continue knitting.

 

It’s that time of year again! The calendars for 2012 are here.    Without equal, here’s the

Helen Hamann  2012 Calendar

Rock Cardigan

      Jazz PulloverThe 2012 Calendar contains a new pattern from Helen for every month, plus two bonus patterns for Nov/Dec of this year.
Lots of accessories in this one–great for smaller projects.
You get the beautifully photographed 14 month calendar, plus a code to download any or all of the 14 patterns.  What could be better?

New from Lopi:

Einband

Einband Shrug
A beautiful new design

the lace weight Icelandic yarn that’s next-to-the-skin soft

This yarn is so beautiful, and it’s made for fabulous lace garments!  We saw and felt this yarn at TNNA, and just had to have it so we could offer it to you.  And in the tradition of other Lopi products, this yarn is a wonderful value for the lace knitter.

Click on the picture above for the Einband pattern book, and click here for the 46 fabulous colors!

Special Sale!

New Crochet and Knit patterns and favorites from Stitch Diva!

Andalusia
Our good friend the Stitch Diva, aka Jennifer Hansen, has new drop-dead gorgeous patterns, and every one deserves to be on the red carpet!

Andalusia can be worn at least ten different ways–you are going to want at least one of these in your closet.

Stitch Diva patterns are innovative, interesting, packed with instructional photos, and they all come with Jennifer’s great tutorials posted on the web so you will “get it.”

All Stitch Diva patterns 15% off through November 14!

Have you ever had one of those moments where you realize how clueless you’ve been?

Now it hits me that I should be using this blog more aggressively for new products (and items newly discontinued).  Duh.  I have had an epiphany.

I usually do this through the email newsletter, but I never have enough space to mention everything.  Also, it just occurred to me that I would have been writing a lot more on this blog if I had been writing about new additions to our inventory, and things that have been discontinued too.

Among the new things we have are of course, books & DVD’s for both knit and crochet.  We actually bring in new books twice a month on average!!  So our inventory has grown a lot and I haven’t been able to discuss them all in the newsletters.  I’m sure you’ll find things there you didn’t even know existed.

Also patterns–we have new Stylecraft, Stitch Diva, Jojoland, Fiber Trends, Fiddlesticks, Vermont Fiber Designs and a few others under miscellaneous. Also new pattern booklets from Lang, Trendsetter, Nashua, and Rowan.   Check them out here.

I’m sure our sons would be appalled at how lame I have been in coordinating all these cyber-tools.  Please don’t say anything to them, ok?

Flamenco, like ChaCha, also looks great when paired with another yarn:

Flamenco + diagonal scarf Flamenco + straight scarf

These two scarves are from Trendsetter and

Barry Klein, and I’m sure you recognize his style.

I also thought of trying a diagonal type scarf, but I get tired of beginning and ending the ruffles, so here’s my solution, partially done:

You can see that I’m taking the ruffles up first one side and then up the other side after the next horizontal ruffles.  In order to get it to look right to my eye, the side ruffles are doubled up.

This scarf is done with one ball of Flamenco and one ball of Vigna, both in the “Watercolor” colorway.  Whenever you are working with the Flamenco horizontal sections, work straight.   When using the Vigna, you will be knitting every row (garter stitch) in a diagonal block; that is, every other row increase on one end of the row and decrease on the other.

You begin with 15 stitches  of Flamenco, being sure to hem the tail as mentioned earlier.  Work at least 6 rows straight (3 on each side), personally I like 4.

Drop the Flamenco and pick up the Vigna or whatever yarn you’re using.  K 1 row, turn.  K1, Make 1, k across to last two st.  Insert needle into last 2 stitches as if to K2tog, then hang 2 mesh holes of Flamenco on the needle and complete the stitch through all 4 loops.  This has the combined effect of placing a little ruffle on the edge and carrying the Flamenco up the side.  Repeat these 2 rows 14 times for a total of 15 ridges.

Now you’re ready to drop the Vigna and pick up the Flamenco again.  While working the Flamenco, every other row, you need to bring the Vigna up the side in whatever method you like (I like to work 1 st, bring the ball over the top and between the needles so that the Vigna yarn is just laying there, not worked into a stitch).  If you forget to bring it up, you’ll find it stuck under the ruffles when you want to change back!

Work 6 or 8 rows of Flamenco, depending on how many tiers of ruffles you want (3 or 4).  On the next row, you’ll take both yarns across the piece, so insert as if to knit, add Flamenco mesh square to needle, yo with Vigna and pull through.  Continue this across the row.

You’ve now completed the bottom ruffle, one segment of diagonal in the alternate yarn, and the second ruffle.   Continue in this way, taking the yarns across and bringing the ruffles up one side and then the other.  I stopped when I ran out of Vigna.

Here’s the finished scarf:

There was plenty of Flamenco left for a ruffle section at the end.

It’s really pretty, plus no matter how you tie it or wear it, there

are ruffles everywhere.

 

The finished scarf at left is 54 inches long.  For less than $30, this

makes a huge fashion statement!

 

If the instructions are unclear to you, just post your question

here, or email me at laurel@handknitting.com.

 

Next post:  some great color combos for this scarf from the store.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the mulberry scarf pictured in the last post, I wanted a little more variation in the thickness and ruffles.  I worked with 12 stitches, and “cast on” as described in the last post. After working 3 rows straight through every mesh hole, I changed the pattern just a bit to add more fullness.  Next two rows, work every other mesh hole, thus adding more flounces.  Third row, switch back to every hole.

Another effect that I like about this is that it stretches a bit more lengthwise, so the ruffles don’t overlap as closely.  Just continue on with 2 rows every other mesh hole, 1 row every mesh hole.  Very nice.

When you get near the end of your ball, plan for your bind off with the triangle fold end the way you started.  Now if you think about it, you’ll bind off just as usual, but what to do with that last stitch??  Oops!  There’s no tail to pull through.   What I finally did was just to tack it securely to the previous row with a needle & thread.

Next post, working with Flamenco and a second yarn….

Yes, I do it too, and there’s that sort of panicky feeling.  Can I really finish that ________ in time?  (You fill in the blank)   But we just got in this exciting new yarn from Trendsetter called Flamenco.  Reminiscent of ChaCha, it’s great for quick-to-make scarves but with a very different and very feminine look.  It looks like a tape yarn in the ball, but it actually is meant to be pulled open and knit like ChaCha through the loops on the long edge.

mulberry Flamenco scarfThis solid color scarf that I created took just one ball and can be done in just a few hours.  It measures about 40″ long and about 5″ wide.  For a longer or wider scarf, use 2 balls.

“Knitting” with this yarn takes a bit of getting used to, but after a while you’ll find it’s no more difficult than ChaCha to knit.  There are, though, a few tips I’d like to share with you.

You can use a needle up to size 10 US, but I recommend an eight or nine, and no smaller.   This is because it’s a bit slippery and if your loops are big around a small needle, you’ll be more likely to drop one, and you really don’t want to do that.   If you are using a contrast yarn, use the size that matches the gauge of the contrast yarn.

Flamenco comes in balls, and you don’t have to rewind it like ChaCha, but you have to stretch the yarn out crosswise so that you can see the mesh.  It still will want to close up on either side, but that’s ok.  Unwrap about a yard at a time, pulling it from side to side until it’s about 3″ wide.

To hide the beginning of the yarn, the best results will come with a mitered triangle fold.  Lay out the stretched tape with the raw edge at your right hand.  Pick up the lower right corner and fold diagonally up and match the spaces to the top edge.  You will now have 3 or 4 spaces that will have double threads along the top, and a folded diagonal edge on the end.  You have to remember to treat the double threads as one for the first two rows.

The most simple scarf comes from threading your needle through every opening along one edge, for as many stitches as you want.  Turn, insert the right hand needle and place the next opening on the needle and pull through.  (Those of you who carry yarn in your left hand will have an easier time of this than the rest of us.)  Continue across (don’t forget the double threads on the end!), and when you look at it on the needle don’t panic.  After these two rows it will look all floppy and stretched out, but once you continue with the 3rd row it will take shape into a consistent width.

Next post:  how I did the scarf above a little differently.

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